SECTION 08: Horizontal Stabilizer
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Before you start:
Build Instruction Updates
- Check for more recent updates here
- CN-00168 Empennage KAI Update: Download Section 8 (NEW Rev 0) from Van's CN-00168 page before starting. Although it is R0, it was included in the CN-00168 message for some reason.
Videos
- RV-15 Horizontal Stabilizer Construction - BackcountryRV-15
Modifications to Consider
Special Tools / Supplies
- Washer wrench (pg. 08-28)
- No-hole / thin-nose yoke (pg. 08-30)
General Build Notes
- Estimated build time: ~40 hours (Louise Hose); 10 hrs with helper (MCA).
Revision History
- R0 - Initial release to builders
Specific Build Notes:
Page 08-02 (R0)
- Label all HS parts (top/bottom/port/starboard) immediately upon unboxing. The aft spar has a definite top and bottom; the front spar is symmetrical.
Page 08-07 (R0)
- (Step 3) Rib fluting: KAI mentions rib fluting in the section intro but does NOT call it out during rib prep steps. Ribs have a front and aft orientation — flute as needed.
- (Step 5) Prime anodized hinge brackets before assembly (required per KAI). Scuff lightly with Scotchbrite before priming.
- Why: The KAI states the anodized finish on these components "is not intended as a standalone for corrosion protection." Anodizing is a controlled surface conversion, not a topcoat, and in industry practice sulphuric and chromic anodize are normally followed by primer. Self-etching primer over anodize (or alodine) is regarded as the single best corrosion-resistance step available to a builder. KAI wording
Page 08-08 (R0)
- Chase/ream holes in powder-coated parts after drilling — powder coat partially fills holes.
Page 08-10 (R0)
- Carefully Countersink without cage: Countersink the rear spar without the countersink cage installed — clearance issues prevent using the cage here.
Page 08-11 (R0)
- Deep-throat yoke (if available) or bucking may be needed for rivets near flanges at this step.
Page 08-22 (R0)
- Angled ribs: take extra time to correctly angle the front/aft flanges before riveting.
Page 08-27 (R0)
- Use a #12 drill to clean powder coat from holes at this step.
Page 08-28 (R0)
- Washer wrench works very well for washers in tight spots.
Page 08-30 (R0)
- WARNING: See HS Skin Dimples. Test-fit an AN507C832R6 screw in the HS-15001-001 dimples before riveting the 84 K-1100-08D nutplates — some skins seem to be dimpled for #6, and re-dimpling afterward is impractical. (VAF)
- A wooden wedge under the no-hole yoke changes squeezer angle for hard-to-reach rivets.
Page 08-31 (R0)
- It is recommended to prime the skin under the doubler, this is called out in the wing KAIs but not here.
Page 08-35 (R0)
- Cover rows NOT to be riveted with tape before starting — easy to accidentally rivet the wrong row.
- Follow the advice in the Wing Section, start at the center and work outward. Recommend rivet all the top holes (A), including the one flush rivet (B) and then the single side rivet (another A). The last rivet should line up nicely.
Page 08-36 (R0)
- See HS Skin Dimples. Check the HS-15015-001 dimples with an AN507C832R6 screw before installing — the dimples may be for a #6 screw. (VAF)
- LE edge break (Step 1): Van's-supplied edge break block may need a relief groove cut to work around pre-dimpled holes.
- Root cause: the factory makes this edge break BEFORE dimpling. Van's will not sell undimpled skins. Cutting a relief groove into the supplied edge-break block (per Section 5.10) and working past each dimple works — cosmetically wavy but lies flush under the screws.
- Alternative: one builder rolled the edges with a standard edge-roller tool, skipping the areas around the pre-dimpled screw holes, rather than modifying the supplied edge-break block. Source
- Step 3 may require 2 people.